Staff View: A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients

A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients

Background The use of cosmetic products is considered a necessity for beautification in our daily lives. Cosmetic products composed of natural oils or fats as a main ingredient for various beneficial properties. Fats and oils are composed of various type of fatty acids with different compositions. H...

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Main Authors:	Ab Aziz, Atiqah, Nordin, Fatin Nur Majdina, Zakaria, Zalina, Abu Bakar, Nor Kartini
Format:	Article
Published:	Wiley 2022
Subjects:	Q Science (General) QD Chemistry
Online Access:	http://eprints.um.edu.my/33729/
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spelling	my.um.eprints.337292022-07-18T02:03:17Z http://eprints.um.edu.my/33729/ A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients Ab Aziz, Atiqah Nordin, Fatin Nur Majdina Zakaria, Zalina Abu Bakar, Nor Kartini Q Science (General) QD Chemistry Background The use of cosmetic products is considered a necessity for beautification in our daily lives. Cosmetic products composed of natural oils or fats as a main ingredient for various beneficial properties. Fats and oils are composed of various type of fatty acids with different compositions. Hence, fatty acids profile can be an effective chemical fingerprint for authentication analysis of cosmetic products. Objective This systematic review aims to enlighten the current detection tools developing for fatty acids profile authentication analyses of cosmetic ingredients based on the effectiveness, halal status, safety, advantages and disadvantages of the methods. Methodology The data were extracted from the scientific literatures published between October 2015 and 2020 in the Web of Science, Scopus and Google Scholar databases, and analyzed with Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA). Findings Based on the systemic literature reviews, essential oil, argan oil, mineral oil, vegetable oil, and jojoba oil were among the mostly studied ingredients in cosmetics. Furthermore, a combination of more than one analytical instrument was utilized to profile fatty acids while the determination of the origin of the fatty acids is under scrutiny. The portable mass spectrometer combined with a direct inlet membrane (DIM) probe seems to be the best tool in terms of time consumption, cost, requires no sample preparation with high efficiency. The current review showed that the best cosmetic base is when the oil is composed of high concentration of fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic acid, and palmitic acids with concentration range from 19.7 - 46.30%, which offers various beneficial properties to cosmetic products. Wiley 2022-01 Article PeerReviewed Ab Aziz, Atiqah and Nordin, Fatin Nur Majdina and Zakaria, Zalina and Abu Bakar, Nor Kartini (2022) A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21 (1). pp. 71-84. ISSN 1473-2130, DOI https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14402 <https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14402>. 10.1111/jocd.14402
institution	Universiti Malaya
building	UM Library
collection	Institutional Repository
continent	Asia
country	Malaysia
content_provider	Universiti Malaya
content_source	UM Research Repository
url_provider	http://eprints.um.edu.my/
topic	Q Science (General) QD Chemistry
spellingShingle	Q Science (General) QD Chemistry Ab Aziz, Atiqah Nordin, Fatin Nur Majdina Zakaria, Zalina Abu Bakar, Nor Kartini A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients
description	Background The use of cosmetic products is considered a necessity for beautification in our daily lives. Cosmetic products composed of natural oils or fats as a main ingredient for various beneficial properties. Fats and oils are composed of various type of fatty acids with different compositions. Hence, fatty acids profile can be an effective chemical fingerprint for authentication analysis of cosmetic products. Objective This systematic review aims to enlighten the current detection tools developing for fatty acids profile authentication analyses of cosmetic ingredients based on the effectiveness, halal status, safety, advantages and disadvantages of the methods. Methodology The data were extracted from the scientific literatures published between October 2015 and 2020 in the Web of Science, Scopus and Google Scholar databases, and analyzed with Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA). Findings Based on the systemic literature reviews, essential oil, argan oil, mineral oil, vegetable oil, and jojoba oil were among the mostly studied ingredients in cosmetics. Furthermore, a combination of more than one analytical instrument was utilized to profile fatty acids while the determination of the origin of the fatty acids is under scrutiny. The portable mass spectrometer combined with a direct inlet membrane (DIM) probe seems to be the best tool in terms of time consumption, cost, requires no sample preparation with high efficiency. The current review showed that the best cosmetic base is when the oil is composed of high concentration of fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic acid, and palmitic acids with concentration range from 19.7 - 46.30%, which offers various beneficial properties to cosmetic products.
format	Article
author	Ab Aziz, Atiqah Nordin, Fatin Nur Majdina Zakaria, Zalina Abu Bakar, Nor Kartini
author_facet	Ab Aziz, Atiqah Nordin, Fatin Nur Majdina Zakaria, Zalina Abu Bakar, Nor Kartini
author_sort	Ab Aziz, Atiqah
title	A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients
title_short	A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients
title_full	A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients
title_fullStr	A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients
title_full_unstemmed	A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients
title_sort	systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients
publisher	Wiley
publishDate	2022
url	http://eprints.um.edu.my/33729/
_version_	1739828476383330304
score	13.211869

A systematic literature review on the current detection tools for authentication analysis of cosmetic ingredients

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